Peyote Stitch TWO - Flat Odd Count Peyote Stitch Beading

The first two steps, stringing the base row and starting the next row, are the same as in even-count peyote. You may refer back to the even count flat peyote stitch to refresh your mind on these steps. The big difference between even-count flat peyote and odd-count flat peyote comes when you get to the end of the first added row. The problem is illustrated by the following image.



As you can see, there is no next bead to go through! So we need to do a little fancy footwork in order to finish the row and begin the next one. First, when you reach the end of the row, continue through both of the last two beads of the base row. Then pick up the last bead of the new row and go left through the second and third beads from the end in the base row.


Then go up and to the right through the bead above the bead your thread is coming out of and down and to the right through the second to last and last beads of the base row once again. Then go up and left though the bead you added. Your thread should now be in position to begin the next row. You will need to use this technique every other row.

Flowered Mini-Amulet Bag

Let's try something a little more ambitious for practice with this lesson. It is possible to make a bag with flat peyote by working a pattern sideways, "zipping" up the edges to create a cylinder and using brick stitch to close up the bottom. This tiny bag will give you good practice with this technique without being too overwhelming. It's cute too!

First work this pattern beginning from the upper left hand corner. Matte transparent aqua, pink-lined clear, opaque white, opaque light green, and matte transparent dark blue were used.

Once the pattern is completed, you will need to fit the ends together and "zip" them up to form a cylinder. Connect the edges by threading up through the first bead on the other end of the same side of the piece. Then go through the 3rd bead on the original side and so on, back and forth until you get to the top. Then go back down through the beads that were skipped the first time.

Now you will need to close up the bottom. Squeeze the cylinder flat with the flower centered in the front. There should be one bead on each side that kind of sticks out between the two layers. Your thread should be coming out of one of these beads. Weave your way over there if necessary. Pick up a bead and go under the threads that go from the end bead to the beads on each side.

Then go back up through the bead you just added. Continue across the bottom 'till you get to the end.

Then add one piece of fringe for each bead you just added. Start with 5 blue beads and one daisy for the first one, then increase the number of blue beads by 5 each time until you reach the center, then decrease by 5. The daisies are pink with white centers. If you do not know how to make daisies, here's where you can learn the basic Daisy Chain stitch, omitting the dagger bead, unless you want a leafy fringe! After you make a daisy, go back around the daisy to the top and up through the blue beads and the bead your thread is coming out of. Then go down through the next bottom edge bead and repeat the process. The top edge of the bag sports triangle trim. To make it, weave up to the top of the bag and pick up 3 blue beads. Go down through the next bead at the top of the bag and then up through the following one. Repeat around the edge of the bag.

The strap consists of 5 blue beads, 1 pink, 1 white (I used slightly larger ones), 1 pink, 5 blue, 1 green, 1 daisy, 1 green and then repeat until you reach the length you want. I think it looks best as a short necklace with the bag hanging near the breastbone. Have fun with this cool variation of Peyote Stitch!

This content created by Emily Hackbarth

Peyote Stitch One - Flat Even Count Peyote Stitch Beading

Peyote Stitch One

Flat Even Count Peyote Stitch Beading

The name "peyote stitch" comes from the Native American Church where the peyote cactus is eaten ceremonially and considered a sacrament. A form of the stitch (not the more common version discussed here) is used to embellish fans, rattles, and other items used in peyote ceremonies. For this reason, some members of the church say that the name peyote should be applied to the stitch only when used in this manner and whenever the stitch is applied to secular items it should be called gourd stitch.


Most beaders continue to use the name peyote stitch simply because the vast majority of people know the stitch by this name. We don't want to offend anyone, but we don't want to confuse anyone either. Perhaps a whole new name is needed! While gourd stitch makes sense when applied to tubular peyote, it's rather inaccurate when applied to flat peyote. Where would the gourd go?


Flat peyote with an even number of beads in the base row is very simple. Tie a bead to the end of your thread and go back through it once. Now pick up the number of beads needed to complete your base row, plus the first bead of the next row. Following the diagram, you would tie on one blue bead and pick up 1 red, 1 blue, 1 red, 1 blue, and 2 red. Now go back through the blue bead closest to the end. Pick up another red bead and go through the next blue bead and so on until you reach the end. You will notice that the red beads in the base row are pushed down as you add beads on top of them. In peyote stitch, the three red beads you just added are considered one row. The base row is considered two rows. Confusing, I know, but it's less confusing than trying to follow a row on a pattern when it's zig-zagging up and down.



Now we fill in the spaces to form the 4th row. Pick up a blue bead and go through the first red bead in the third row. Pick up another blue bead and go through the next red bead and so on until you come to the end once more.



That's basically all there is to it. I will cover increasing and decreasing in a future column as well as flat odd-count, and odd and even tubular peyote. For now why not practice with a groovy faux leopard print bracelet? Here the pattern progresses horizontally rather than vertically. Repeat this pattern block until you reach the length you need.




Matte black, black lined orange, and clear orange size 11 seed beads were used for an interesting mix of colors and textures. This is how it looks made up.




This content created by Emily Hackbarth

Wrapping Loops

You will need:

Your choice of wire
Wire cutters
Round nosed pliers
Bent/flat nosed pliers

1. Start by bending the wire to a 90 degree angle so that you create an upside down L shape.

2. Hold the bend with your round nosed pliers, and use your fingers to wrap the wire around the nose of your pliers to form a loop.




3. Keep the round nosed pliers inside the loop, and hold the loop against the nose of the pliers with one finger. So, you should have your round nosed pliers in one hand with one finger pressing the loop against the nose. (I'm right handed, so I use my left hand to hold the pliers and my pointer finger to hold the loop against the nose.)

4. Using your other hand (in my case, my right hand), start to wrap the loose wire around the straight piece of wire that is directly under your loop. If the wire is soft, you can probably do this with your fingers. Otherwise, use a bent (of flat if you prefer) pair of pliers to hold the loose wire and wrap.

5. Continue to wrap as many times as you want, and if necessary, trim off excess wire.

6. Use your bent nosed pliers to press the wire wrapped end flat to make sure it doesn't stick our and scratch or poke the wearer of your jewelry.

7. If necessary, use your round nose pliers to straighten the loop.

A Few Tips:

• Be patient, and be prepared to practice. There is no way you will do this perfectly the first time. The more you do it, the better you will become.
• Be careful not to wrap too close to a bead if you are including one on the wire as it could crack the bead. Though some jewelry makers like to get their wrap as close as possible to the bead, I don't mind a little room, but this is personal preference.
• For beads with small holes, like pearls, you will need thin wire such as 24-28 gauge. Otherwise, 21 gauge seems to work will with most bead sizes.
• When making long, loop wrapped chains, instead of cutting lots of small pieces of wire for each loop, try using longer pieces (about a foot or so in length), and cutting the wire after each loop is made. This will keep wire waste down.

All graphics and lessons created by Tammy Powley.

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Loop Technique

Once you get the hang of this technique you can use it to help make earrings, dangles, pendants, Y necklaces, and many more jewelry projects. When I teach jewelry making classes, I often find that the most difficult part of any project we make seems to be when my students use round nose pliers to make the eye on a piece of wire or head pin. This seems to give people the most trouble. So, I’m going to attempt to explain how to do it. However, keep in mind, as in any technique that you haven’t done before, practice makes perfect. I don’t know how many times I’ve shown my students how to do it and then when they do it I hear, "It looked so easy when she did it." That’s because I’ve done it hundreds of times. Trust me; my first few attempts where very frustrating. In fact, I remember thinking, "I just paid $24 for these round nose pliers! I wasted my money." So, be patient and practice, practice, practice.

Now for the lesson. First, as I mentioned above you need a pair of round nose pliers. As with any other tools, there are the economy brands and the high end brands. If you make a lot of jewelry, I recommend spending a little more money and getting a pair that are German made, preferably with a small spring in between the handles.

First bend the wire at a 90 degree angle.

In this case I’m making an earring, so I recommend cutting the wire at this point. Obviously, the amount you cut depends on the size of the bead or beads on the head pin. In this case, I cut off about ½ inch. After you’re sure the part of the head pin that is bent is about ½ inches long, you’re ready to start using the round nose pliers to create the eye or circle at the end. In this case I’m making an earring, so I recommend cutting the wire at this point. Obviously, the amount you cut depends on the size of the bead or beads on the head pin. In this case, I cut off about ½ inch. After you’re sure the part of the head pin that is bent is about ½ inches long, you’re ready to start using the round nose pliers to create the eye or circle at the end.
Position the bent part of the head pin so it is facing away from you. Using the round nosed pliers, grasp the end of the bent head pin making sure the middle part of the plier’s nose is holding the pin.

Now that you have positioned your pliers correctly, slowing bend the wire towards you. The first bend will not complete the circle yet.

Now release and reposition your pliers on the circle you’ve started. Continue to bend it toward you until you’ve made a circle.

Now this earring is ready to have the ear hook put on and the eye or circle closed around it.
This is not the easiest technique to explain. But, I believe once you try it a few times you’ll perhaps find your own tricks to this technique. Though you don’t have to use this technique to make earrings and other pieces of jewelry, it really makes for a more finished look. Here’s a picture of an old earring I made many years ago before I knew how to do this. As you can see, the top of the earring is bent more flat because I used a pair of needle nosed pliers.

Now here is a newer earring I made using the round nose pliers and the technique I just explained. As you can see it looks more professional. Also, the bottom part of the earring move freely and this wouldn’t be as possible if I hadn’t made the eyes in the head pins.

All graphics and lessons created by Tammy Powley.

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